The cosmetics industry faces a paradox: vegetable oils are sustainable, but their physical instability limits their use in high-end products. Svitlana Mykolenko, a researcher at ETH Zurich, has solved this problem through an innovative gelation process. Her method, developed at the start-up Olexir, uses plant proteins to transform liquid oils into stable oleogels, eliminating the dependence on synthetic additives and opening up new possibilities in the design of biodegradable materials.
Molecular visualization of the protein network in oleogels 🧬
From a materials science perspective, Mykolenko's advance is fascinating. At the molecular level, plant proteins act as crosslinking agents. When dispersed in oil, they form a three-dimensional network that traps lipid molecules, creating a semi-solid structure. This process, which can be modeled in 3D, contrasts with traditional synthetic gels, which rely on petroleum-derived polymers. Computational simulation allows us to observe how protein chains fold and anchor, generating a homogeneous texture and controlled release of active ingredients. The absence of additives not only improves biocompatibility but also facilitates the degradation of the material after use.
The impact of mentorship on materials innovation 🌱
The support of the Pioneer Fellowship program at ETH Zurich has been key to moving this technology from the lab to the market. Without this support, the transition from a molecular concept to a viable product would be nearly impossible. The story of Olexir demonstrates that materials science is not only about discovering new structures but also about finding the right ecosystem to develop them. By visualizing the interior of these oleogels, we understand that sustainability and functionality are not at odds; they just need to be modeled, simulated, and finally, manufactured with intelligence.
How can the microstructure of plant protein oleogels overcome the oxidative instability of natural oils without compromising the bioavailability of lipophilic active ingredients in cosmetic formulations?
(PS: Visualizing materials at the molecular level is like looking at a sandstorm with a magnifying glass.)